Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
