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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.